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裸色风靡

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从左到右依次为:米歇尔·奥巴马(Micchelle Obama),妮可拉·罗伯茨(Nicola Watts),娜奥米·沃茨(Naomi Watts),杰玛·阿特登(Gemma Arterton),黛米·摩尔(Demi Moore),赫尔墨斯(Hermès)。看来,米歇尔·奥巴马因为一件晚礼服而引起了轰动。去年11月,当她穿着这件*色(好吧,我们暂且先避开这个词)及地长裙会见印度总理时,她可不会想到争议由此而来。礼服设计师Naeem Khan将衣服描述为“银片圆饰抽象花纹裸色抹胸礼服”。而美联社将其报导为“肉色”,但是我们第一夫人的肤色和他们说的“肉色”可不符。现在,美联社已然将描述改成了“香槟色”,但是这一行为已经触发了时尚界关于“裸色”一词使用的辩论。杂志Jezebel里有人写到:“裸色?对谁而言呢?”
Michelle Obama must be used to causing a stir with her frocks. But she could not have known when she chose a floorlength gown in a lovely shade of – well, let's just pass over that for the moment – to meet the Indian prime minister last November, the furore that would follow. The dress was described by its designer Naeem Khan as a "sterling-silver sequin, abstract floral, nude strapless gown". Associated Press said it was "flesh-coloured", the colour of Obama's own flesh notwithstanding. Now AP appears to have revised that description to "champagne", an act that has triggered debate about fashion's use of the word "nude". "Nude? For whom?" asks Jezebel magazine.
任何看时尚杂志的人对这些词都不会陌生。裸色是当季流行,风靡了今年所有的春夏T台秀,从米白到玫瑰粉到金蜜色等等(在时尚用词里,裸色就是指那些柔和淡雅的颜色)。InStyle杂志更是将这种颜色称之为“新黑”,也就是继经典黑色之后的又一经典:这种说法也就默认了黑皮肤女性不能追随此潮流。因为黑人穿黑衣不是潮流,也不会有人把黑色当成裸色。
To anyone who reads fashion magazines these terms will be familiar. "Nude" shades are everywhere this season, having dominated the spring/summer 2010 catwalks, from off-white through pale rose to gold ("nude" in fashion terms does not refer to anything more exciting than these rather muted colours, not even with "nude bras"). InStyle magazine goes as far as to say that nude is the new black: just about the surest way to exclude black-skinned women from adopting the trend, since it's apparently not acceptable to wear black as black, nor black as nude.
流行色来说的。”杂志编辑Lorraine Candy不认为这有什么问题。“裸色就是白的裸色,不是黑的裸色。它不也不是我的皮肤颜色嘛,我的是透白的。对于像米歇尔·奥巴马这样有影响力的人,穿“裸色”衣服也很好看,人们没必要这么小题大做。”
Over at Elle magazine, where the May issue sees the word "nude" repeated nine times on a single page, "nude is the colour for spring/summer". Editor Lorraine Candy says there is nothing wrong with this. "Nude is a defined colour. It's white nude, not black nude, but it's not the colour of my skin either. I'm see-through white. With someone as powerful and amazing as Michelle Obama, I think it's the wrong thing to get worked up about."
但问题是,在用词方面,时尚界会形成其独有的形式。比如珠饰、流苏和动物纹这些元素已约定俗成地被认为是部落风(a “tribal” trend)(而Candy说每回她看到这个词(tribal)都会将其删掉)。去年10月,也就是奥巴马夫人穿着她的裙子现身的前一个月,模特Lara Stone在法国的时尚秀上全副黑色武装出现。但黑人模特在各大T台秀和杂志封面的出镜率仍然是寥寥无几,她们很难进入这个圈子。即使时尚编辑们找到“裸色”的替代词,也是蜜粉色,玫瑰色,浅红色,象牙色等等,而这些词往往是用来形容我们的英伦玫瑰的好气色的。不过关于色彩引发的争议也不是第一次了,还记得美国的棕褐色紧身裤吗,他们的宗旨是赋予所有的美国人(美国人又不都是白人)一双拥有健康肤色的美腿
The problem is that the language of fashion has form in this regard. Beading, fringing and animal prints are routinely offered as evidence of a "tribal" trend (though that is a word Candy says she crosses out whenever she sees it). Last October, a month before Obama stepped out in her dress, model Lara Stone appeared blacked up in French Vogue. Black models, meanwhile, are few and far between on catwalks and covers. And even when fashion editors find synonyms for "nude" they are conventionally honey, rose, blush, ivory, words commonly used to make an English rose complexion seem aspirational. There is nothing new in all this, of course: remember American Tan tights, and their promise to bring a healthy glow to all those "American" (read pale) legs?
“对我来说,褐色才是裸色,”Jezebel杂志的副编辑Dobai Stewart说。“而且我认为,忽略裸色并不是对所有人而言这点,确实排斥了一些人。”
"For me, nude would be if I wore brown," says Dodai Stewart, deputy editor of Jezebel. "I do think that it really is exclusionary not to realise that this is not nude for everyone."
但是这只是对一种颜色的描述罢了,人们并没有想到它会冒犯到谁。同样,这也是时尚界的一种风格,整个潮流的概念都是如此。5月号的InStyle封面照上,演员Gemma Arterton身着一件与她肤色相差无几的礼服,看起来她与衣服已经合二为一了,白皙的皮肤与浅色的礼服相得益彰,使得整体效果更为惊艳。而在巴黎、米兰、伦敦、纽约的T台上,这些淡色都如出一辙穿在了白皮肤的模特身上。这是专属于白皮肤的造型。
But it isn't just the description of a colour that is potentially offensive here, it's also the way the look is styled, the conception of the entire trend. On the cover of May's InStyle, actor Gemma Arterton appears in a frock so close to her skin tone that it seems to seep into her chest and shoulders, the two adjacent pallors of flesh and dress somehow bleaching each other out, lightening further the overall look. On the catwalks in Paris, Milan, London and New York, these pale shades were presented almost uniformly on pale skins. It's a look that's all about white skin.
“米歇尔·奥巴马看起来很美,”伦敦服装学院的文化研究教授Reina Lewis说。“这条裙子也很漂亮。但是穿在她身上,与其说是裸色,不如将它描述为素色。”
"Obama looks amazing," says Reina Lewis, professor of cultural studies at the London College of Fashion. "It's a fabulous dress. But on her skin 'nude' is revealed as a colour rather than neutral."
而事实是,将这些颜色称为“素色”(或中性色)是不合适的,因为不断的争论让人们越来越明白:裸色潮流已成定局。世界色彩权威机构Pantone可能已经在色卡里增加了裸色,如此,在所有杂志里被使用的“裸色”就得到了官方认可。然后服装类别里也许会有另一个“*色”被大量使用来描述巧克力色等褐色系颜色。是不是将有那么一天,“裸色”会使白人和黑人都感到不自在呢?
Indeed it seems misplaced to think of these shades as neutral, when the debate makes clear that this trend is anything but. Pantone, the world-renowned authority on colour, may have a "nude" shade, thereby conferring a certain official acceptability on all those magazines' usage of the term. But then another N-word was once commonly used in clothes catalogues to describe a chocolatey shade of brown. (Yes, THAT N-word.) Will "nude" one day strike us as equally horrifying?
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2010-10-15 16:37 编辑:kuaileyingyu
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