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奥斯卡红毯上的“植入广告”

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春晚上王菲的连衣裙、牛莉的粉红大衣都成为热销的服饰,这种通过明星势力推动时尚潮流的运营方式,在海外早已发展成熟。刚刚举行的第82届奥斯卡颁奖礼红毯上,女星们的穿着打扮其实都是一个个活的植入广告。

With the Academy Award nominations out this week, fashion designers are already jockeying to dress the stars for their big night. But rather than picking the Oscar winners, designers are asking another question: Who will be the most effective at getting viewers to buy the clothes they see on the red carpet?

随着奥斯卡提名名单的揭晓,设计师们已经开始为明星们在颁奖当晚所穿服装展开了角逐。设计师们看重的不是谁是奥斯卡大赢家,他们考虑的是另外一个问题:在促使观众买下红地毯上看到的服装上面,哪个明星最有说服力?

Among this year's nominees, the 'best seller' award is likely to go to a nominee whom few in the fashion world are discussing: Sandra Bullock. At StyleSpot.com, a Los Angeles-based Web site that links red-carpet photos to stores that sell the looks, Ms. Bullock's one-shouldered Vivienne Westwood dress at the Golden Globes ranked among the top of all red-carpet appearances this year in inspiring viewers to 'click through' to retail sites.

在今年的提名者中,“最佳推销员”的奖项可能要属于一个在时尚界少有人议论的奥斯卡候选人:桑德拉·布洛克。在StyleSpot.com网站上,布洛克在金球奖颁奖典礼上的单肩薇薇恩·韦斯特伍德礼服在今年所有的红毯亮相中位居前列,她也成为最能鼓励观众从红毯照片点击链接至服装卖场的人。总部位于洛杉矶的StyleSpot.com网站将红毯照片和销售这些礼服的商家链接在一起。

One lesson: It isn't pure chic that moves clothes. 'For the most part, celebrities that drive sales aren't necessarily the ones that get nominated' for awards, says Lily Hollander, editorial director of StyleSpot.com. The 45-year-old Ms. Bullock is not high on chic lists, but her down-to-earth image mean millions of women relate to her.

一个经验是:推动服装销售的并非是单纯的时髦漂亮。“在绝大多数情况下,带动销量的明星不一定是那些获得了奥斯卡提名的演员,”StyleSpot.com编辑部主任莉莉·霍兰德表示。45岁的布洛克在时尚榜单上的位置并不靠前,不过她的邻家女形像意味着成百上千万的女性对她有认同感。

By contrast, with her Best Actress Oscar nomination for 'An Education' this week, Carey Mulligan has dozens of fashion designers vying to lend her baubles and gowns for the Oscars. The young actress with the pixie haircut is known as a sophisticated dresser. 'Carey Mulligan will be the most watched on Vogue.com,' says Hamish Bowles, Vogue's European editor at large, recalling a sparkling Prada dress the actress wore recently.

相比之下,因《成长教育》获得最佳女演员提名的凯瑞·穆里根则得到了数十名服装设计师的青睐,他们争相租借给她在奥斯卡上穿着的首饰和礼服。这位留着利落短发的年轻女演员在穿着方面是个众所周知的高手。“凯瑞·穆里根将成为Vogue.com网站上最受人关注的人物,”Vogue欧洲版编辑哈米什·鲍尔斯说,她回想起穆里根最近穿着的一件亮闪闪的普拉达礼服。

But despite Ms. Mulligan's fashion credit, she may not be the savviest choice for product placement. At StyleSpot.com, Ms. Mulligan is not one of the stars who moves the most viewers to buy clothes. Ms. Mulligan wasn't available to comment.

不过尽管穆里根在时尚方面有可信度,但她或许并不是植入式广告最明智的人选。在 StyleSpot.com网站上,穆里根并不属于能够推动观众购买服装的明星之列。记者未能联系到穆里根置评。

Celebrity placement is more voodoo than science, but among this year's nominees, other Oscar sales influencers may include plus-sized Gabourey Sidibe and the classic Meryl Streep. Ms. Sidibe, the star of 'Precious,' is 'an alternate paradigm for the red carpet, but she can carry these very strong colors,' says Mr. Bowles. What's more, the plus-sized market is one of fashion's fastest growing.

有关明星植入式广告的效用并不存在什么科学根据,不过在今年的提名者中,丰满的加伯瑞·斯迪比和典雅的梅丽尔·斯特里普或许也能推动奥斯卡销售。《真爱》的主演斯迪比是“红毯上的另类范例,不过她能够驾驭那些非常强烈的色彩,”鲍尔斯说。另外,大尺寸服装也是时尚界成长最快的市场之一。

And Ms. Streep's maturity and demure style choices may appeal to women over 40, who spend more on fashion than other demographic groups.

而且,斯特里普成熟而端庄的时尚风格或许对40岁以上的女性有吸引力,这些女性比其他人口统计群体在服装上面的花费都要多。

Red carpets have become a primary marketing channel for fashion. The Academy Award nominees' photos will be plastered from Boise to Bombay after the March 7 awards show, which will be watched by something north of 35 million television viewers--and seen on a gazillion blogs. It's an irresistible advertising medium. In Los Angeles, designers employ VIP handlers, who work to get the designers' clothes on celebrities who might be photographed in them.

红地毯已经成为时尚界最主要的一条营销渠道。奥斯卡提名者的照片在3月7日的颁奖晚会后将被张贴到从美国爱达荷州的博伊西到印度孟买的各个地方,还会出现在数不清的博客上面。奥斯卡还将拥有超过3500万名电视观众。这是个让人无法抗拒的广告平台。在洛杉矶,设计师们聘用了专门针对贵宾的人员,他们的工作就是让这些设计师的服装出现在明星们的身上。

The fashion industry does this because it works. After Sienna Miller wore Thakoon's spring bustier jumper to the premiere of the fashion documentary 'The September Issue,' every store that bought the piece sold out, says a spokeswoman for designer Thakoon Panichgul.

时尚产业之所以这么做是因为这招确实奏效。设计师塔库恩·帕尼克歌尔的发言人表示,西耶娜·米勒在时装纪录片《九月刊》的首映礼穿上了Thakoon的修身小礼服裙之后,每家进了这件衣服的商店都卖断了货。

Yet success, for a designer, is a delicate balance of star power and timing. After Jessica Alba presented an award at the People's Choice awards last month, her Burberry Prorsum knotted platform sandals generated the most click-throughs to retail sites of any red-carpet appearance this season on StyleSpot.com.

然而对于设计师来说,成功还是明星影响力和时机之间的一种微妙平衡。杰西卡·阿尔芭在上个月的人民选择奖颁奖礼上露面后,她穿着的巴宝莉子品牌Burberry Prorsum的打结厚底凉鞋为StyleSpot.com网站带来了本季所有红毯亮相中指向零售店的最多的点击量。

Unfortunately for Burberry, those spring-season shoes won't be available in stores for another month. So shoppers had to settle for similar looks offered on the site by Robert Clergerie and Callisto.

不过不幸的是,巴宝莉这款春季款凉鞋直到下月才会到店。因此买家们不得不退而求其次,在网站上购买Robert Clergerie和Callisto品牌的相似的凉鞋款式。

Nothing is too minor for mention. Stylist Mark Townsend announced that he set actress January Joness hair in a French twist for the Golden Globes, blow drying her hair 'with a round brush' and securing 'it with about 10 bobby pins.' He also named hair products and prices: Moroccanoil Treatment, $39 for 3.4 fl. oz.

没有什么是不值一提的。造型师马克·汤森德宣布,他在金球奖上为女演员詹纽瑞·琼斯做了一个法式发髻,先吹干她的头发,“用滚梳”梳头发,再“用大约10支发夹”固定。他还公布了自己的美发产品和价格:Moroccanoil护理,3.4液体盎司的价格是39美元。

标签:奥斯卡
6
2010-03-08 21:57 编辑:kuaileyingyu
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