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上班如何穿牛仔裤

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在商界和政界高层圈子里,大人物穿仔裤亮相正变得越来越常见。实际上,牛仔裤如今成为了全球大人物着装词汇中的一个正当部分,在一些重要会议中时有亮相,穿着者希望以此表示他们既认真──但不挑剔──又具创新精神。
Power jeans are increasingly common in high-ranking business and political circles. Indeed, jeans are now a legitimate part of the global power-dress lexicon, worn to influential confabs where the wearers want to signal they're serious--but not fussy--and innovative.
这一风格源自年轻人,但已经扩散到了中年阶层。
The look started with the young but has crossed into gray-haired circles.
选择得当的话,牛仔裤可以传达穿着者自信摩登的特质。传统剪裁的蓝色牛仔裤带有一种劳动者的气息,因此领导者穿着仔裤可以表达一种愿意卷起袖子大干一场的意思。穿着牛仔裤还有一种叛逆的意味。在会议室,牛仔裤则透着创新的感觉。
Chosen well, jeans can suggest the wearer is confident and modern. Traditionally cut blue jeans carry a whiff of the laborer about them, so denim on a leader suggests a willingness to roll up the sleeves and dig in. There's also something of the rebel in a pair of jeans. In the boardroom, that can read as creative.
不过,牛仔裤必须精心搭配熨烫平整的衬衫和上好的鞋子,才能提升到商务层次。一些行业的正式着装迄今仍未对牛仔裤敞开大门。例如,银行和会计师事务所的会议室仍然是毛料西装的天下。驻纽约的职业咨询师约斯科特·图尔科说,穿牛仔裤在媒体、制造业和创新行业中通常没什么大不了的,但在金融服务和律师事务所中就不是这样。
But jeans must be carefully paired with a pressed shirt and good shoes to be elevated to business class. And some industries haven't (yet) become open to denim as power wear. Banks and accounting-firm boardrooms, for instance, remain decidedly woolen. New York-based career adviser Jonscott Turco says jeans are generally a "no-brainer" in the media, manufacturing and creative industries, but not in financial services and law firms.
此外,也有可能在正确的地点穿着错误的牛仔裤。巴拉克·奥巴马的妻子孩子一直被视为时尚标志,但他本人却因为穿着过时的“老爸裤”(松松垮垮的高腰牛仔裤)为全美职业棒球大联盟全明星赛开球而遭奚落。两年前,当时的英国首相布托尼·莱尔穿着仔裤会见美国总统乔治·布什,因为仔裤过于贴身而遭到批评。
It's also possible to go awry with the wrong jeans in the right place. Barack Obama, whose wife and children have been heralded as fashion icons, was ridiculed for wearing dorky "dad jeans" (baggy and high-rise) to pitch at an All-Star game. When Tony Blair wore jeans to meet George Bush two years ago, the British prime minister was criticized for his pants' snug fit.
也就是说,合身是牛仔裤的根本要素,就像定做的西裤一样。精品百货店萨克斯第五大道的男装时尚总监埃里克·杰宁斯建议,如果要穿牛仔裤参加商务场合,男人应当穿着深色的直筒牛仔裤。他建议说,千万不要显得好像最后一刻才脱下正式的套装西裤换上牛仔裤:不要用配西裤的花哨法式袖口衬衫搭配牛仔裤。
To wit, fit is as essential for jeans as for tailored slacks. Eric Jennings, Saks Fifth Avenue men's fashion director, suggests that men keep their executive jeans "dark and straight". And never dress as if the jeans had been switched out from formal suit pants at the last minute: No fancy French-cuffed shirts with jeans, he advises.
实际上,将显示权威的仔裤穿对还有诸多忌讳。不要在工作时穿做旧的洞洞牛仔裤。夸张的金属配饰、水洗磨白、华丽的绣花、喇叭裤、超瘦牛仔裤、七分裤、热裤或是半截裤、松垮的高腰、超低腰、破洞,这些全都是禁忌。也不要刻意熨烫。
In fact, getting power jeans right involves lots of no's. No distressed jeans at work. No metal studs. No acid washes. No lavish embroidery. No boot cut. No skinny. No pedal pushers, shorts or cutoffs. No baggy high-rise. No super-low-rise. No holes. And no fussy ironing.
今天牛仔裤成为大人物的新宠还要感谢苹果公司首席执行长史蒂夫·乔布斯。他那身李维斯501牛仔裤配黑色高领套头衫的经典着装在上世纪九十年代就是创新的同义词;如今在科技领域,穿着西裤会引来怀疑的目光。文本信息公司Tatango负责营销的副总裁安德鲁·杜蒙特说,(在科技行业)如果一个人接受采访或参加会议时穿的不是牛仔裤,就会显得不够老练和缺乏自信。
We have Steve Jobs to thank for today's power jeans. His uniform of Levi's 501s and a black turtleneck was synonymous with innovation in the '90s; now, in the tech world, dressy pants can be viewed with suspicion. "When someone shows up to an interview or meeting in anything other than jeans, it shows inexperience and a lack of confidence," says Andrew Dumont, vice president of marketing for text-messaging company Tatango.
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2009-12-20 10:30 编辑:kuaileyingyu
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