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美国的街边的热狗时代

所属:生活杂谈 作者:Jeff Gordinier 来源:The New York Times 阅读:12205 次 评论:0 条 [我要评论]  [+我要收藏]

小编摘要:美国式热狗到底有多大吸引力?几乎所有的美国人外出烧烤聚餐时,都会准备好热狗的食材。想体验这些热狗的吸引力,就不得不亲口去尝试一下。

导读:两片敞开式的面包,夹着法兰克福香肠,搭配简单的芥末酱或其他配菜,美国式热狗就诞生了。在美国,热狗是家喻户晓的大众食品。从上世纪90年代到20世纪初,街边大大小小的热狗摊随处可见,但是由于卫生问题,这些热狗往往也被授予“肮脏”的名号。尤其是现在的家长们,更希望自己的孩子吃到卫生的食品。于是,摊主们悄然地将传统手推车革新换代,制作方式也趋于更卫生,花样更繁复。新时代的热狗制法受到了大众的喜爱,可惜的是,目前存在于纽约的这些“移动式”热狗店的数量已经减少很多了。



Get this: There are children in New York who have never eaten a hot dog.

Seriously. A couple of them showed up in Central Park the other day.

Andrew McDonnell, the entrepreneur behind the Good to Go Organics carts that have begun popping up in the city, was standing next to one of his three wiener stands and talking about the provenance of the toppings that grace his organic dogs. The grass-fed beef for his chili comes from Kinderhook Farm in Columbia County, N.Y. The sauerkraut, which Mr. McDonnell’s team picks up in person at the Union Square Greenmarket each week, hails from another Hudson Valley grower, Hawthorne Valley Farm.

As Mr. McDonnell talked about how “people in general are just looking for a better quality of food,” a young Manhattan mother ordered her two children what she said would be the first hot dog they had tried.

Another mom, Shephali Gupte, lined up with her two children moments later and said that in her household, too, the street dogs that had won her stamp of maternal approval came from Good to Go Organics. “I’m a big fan of street food, but it has to be more wholesome,” Ms. Gupte said. “I wish there were more of these kinds of carts around the park.”

But wait. What about that classic pushcart up the way, capped with the red-and-yellow umbrella? “I’d choose this over that, even though this is more expensive,” she said.

If you’ve passed through the city in the past century or so, you might expect that pushcart to be serving what everyone (even a drooling aficionado) likes to call a “dirty-water dog,” a hot frank plucked with tongs from a metal vat full of warm, salty liquid.

The delivery system is simple. The cooking method is rudimentary. And the result, with the way that soft bun sops up spare droplets of broth, is so essential to the New York gestalt that visiting world leaders must take a ceremonial bite for the cameras when strolling our sidewalks.

Water-heated wieners can be found on countless blocks of the city, and plenty of people are still ordering and devouring them. The other day, Gerri Queren, an airline employee from Queens, was picking up one with sauerkraut and mustard near the southeastern corner of Central Park.

"This is like a staple of New York,” she said. “It’s a little soggier, but it’s the way New York is.”

But the way New York is has been changing. Parents who insist on wholesome, natural franks in Central Park are one of many challenges quietly, slowly chipping away at the street-corner dominance of the dirty-water dog.

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2011-08-12 10:00 编辑:Relaxkuma
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