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内华达沙漠的奇妙之旅

所属:生活杂谈 作者:Joyce Wadler 来源:The New York Times 阅读:5756 次 评论:0 条 [我要评论]  [+我要收藏]

小编摘要:内华达沙漠之旅为我们开启了又一道奇妙景色。因为Antonioni执导的一部电影'Zabriskie Point'而与'死亡谷'结缘,17、18年前的一次旅游经历又让Rondolino夫妇爱上了那里,现在跟随他们的脚步,去感受那里与众不同的美景

导读:位于美国内华达州的内华达沙漠,吸引了一位名叫Fabrizio Rondolino的意大利新闻记者,他带着自己了家人来到这里定居,并建造了梦想中的房子。那里离“死亡谷”非常近,许多人都想知道那里是不是有响尾蛇出没。尽管炎热异常,Mr. Rondolino和他的家人还是爱上了这个地方。当夜幕降临的时候,你可以看见成千上万的星星围绕,就像身处于太空中,这是Palm Springs那样的“文明”沙漠所不能比拟的。

Neighbors are few out here in the high desert of Nevada, where Fabrizio Rondolino, an Italian journalist, built his dream home. There was a fellow one lot over who, after reportedly hearing instructions from above, built a chapel. But possibly the voice subsequently hollered down, “Just kidding!” for while the chapel remains, the owner’s trailer is gone. There is also the Shady Lady Ranch, a bordello (legal in these parts) about seven miles down the road. Being an outgoing and friendly sort, Mr. Rondolino took his wife and two daughters, both under 21 at the time, to say hello, soon after they bought their land a few years ago.

"I was locking the car, and my wife and two girls ring the bell,” Mr. Rondolino remembers. “And the guy opened the door, and they saw two girls and a lady.” The man seemed to think they were looking for a job, and he told them several times that no under-age girls were allowed in the house. Then Mr. Rondolino arrived and informed him they were the new neighbors. The man wasn’t very friendly, Mr. Rondolino recalls. He said, “Good luck,” and that was that.

But bordellos and mystics are not the first thing an Easterner wants to know about after arriving on this stretch of land 150 miles north of Las Vegas, not far from Death Valley, on a scorching summer day. The first thing one wants to know is whether there are rattlesnakes. The answer, from Peter Strzebniok, the architect who built this house and is also visiting on this day: no, it is too hot. Rattlesnakes prefer the shade.

The next question — the big one — is for the owner: Why would he build a house in the middle of the scorching nowhere?

It is not an unexpected question. Mr. Rondolino, who arrived earlier the same day from his home in Rome, with his wife, Simona Ercolani; their daughters, Francesca, 23, and Bianca, 17; and his parents, Gianni and Lina Rondolino, cheerfully interrupts, as it is one he has heard countless times.

"Why, why, why, why, why?” he asks, his face full of happiness, like a man who has been reunited with a true love after a long time apart. “It all started with ‘Zabriskie Point,’ ” he says, referring to the Antonioni film about 1960s counterculture. “Simona’s father worked on that movie — he was chief electrician back in 1969. ‘Zabriskie Point’ was kind of a mythical occasion for him. It is set in Death Valley; part of it was shot at Zabriskie Point.”

"Anyway, we came here for the first time 17, 18 years ago, and we fell deeply in love with Death Valley, so we keep coming,” continues Mr. Rondolino, who is 51 and speaks English fluently. “And then we decided, why not build?”

"My father has the Alzheimer’s for 13 years,” says Ms. Ercolani, who is 47 and speaks English less fluently than her husband. “When he died, the last words he remembered was ‘Zabriskie Point.’ Not me, not my daughters, not my mother. Only ‘Zabriskie Point.’ ”

She adds: “When my father died, we take the airplane here to honor my father and just walk, and he” — meaning Mr. Rondolino — “says, ‘It’s a beautiful place, we can build something.’ And joking, I say, ‘Sure.’ ”

Speaking of her husband, we have just noticed he has a small blue “S” tattooed on his hand in the tender tissue between thumb and forefinger. What’s that about?

"We had a small troubled period,” Ms. Ercolani says. “So after we build the house, I marked my husband.”

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2011-08-10 11:00 编辑:Relaxkuma
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